August 23th- September 9th
We ended up stopping back over in Coco Banderos for a couple more days to wait out weather from Hurricane Dean. This we didn't mind at all as there are certainly worse places to spend time! The horizon was painted white as huge waves crashed into the reef, flinging sea spray twenty feet into the air. But Max remained quite still in the calm protected cove. Once the weather quieted we left the shelter of the islands and found ourselves surrounded by nothing but wide open ocean once more. The first night was long with sloppy weather and large waves, but I felt right at home after using my mom's toggle treatment to overcome my seasickness at last. It was a rather strange watch, however. For the entire night a flock of about twenty tiny yellow sea birds flew with Max as she sailed. They never once stopped to rest but kept flying close all around the boat, even in the worst of the wind and heavy rain, until about 4am when they disappeared. I was glad for their company through that cold and gloomy night.
After a thirty hour crossing we reached Cartagena at dawn, the impressive city sky line glowing crimson as the sun rose.We traversed the channel carefully with sky scrapers on our left, the beautiful european-style buildings of the Old City ahead, and a gigantic U.S. aircraft carrier following too close at our stern! We ducked out as it sped by on the wrong side of the channel, blowing it's deafening foghorn. The huge tanker passing it in the other lane (also on the wrong side of the channel!) was simply dwarfed by it's enormity. A bit confused, we called Travis on the radio just to make sure that you aren't supposed to drive in the opposite lane in Columbia.
You aren't.
As soon as the anchor was set we dinghied in to the Marina to say hello to Travis and Joanne. Then we eagerly set out on foot to check out the city. After walking around for a while I realized that it is the little differences that set Cartagena aside from other places we've been. Donkeys pull wooden carts filled with snacks down the crowded streets and young men walk aroundwith thermoses full of delicious strong Columbian coffee, filling your cup for 200 pesos (less than 10 cents). Women in brightly colored fringed dresses walk up and down the busy sidewalks selling exotic fruits from huge baskets carefully balanced on top their heads. Men push heavy wooden carts filled to the brim with vegetables, calling out the prices at the top of their lungs. The vendors' call mixed with the sound of hooves clacking on pavement, latin music in the streets and parrots squaking in the trees makes a song of zest and life which becomes the soundtrack to our day. Even the walls add to the festive feel with their vibrant splashes of bright orange, blue, and yellow. We walk for hours on end, just happy to be lost in this world of foreign flavor.
A week turns into two and before we know it it's well into September. We walk to the old section of the city almost daily, fighting the heat with treats sold from stands on every corner. Limeade, orange juice, and coconut water are squeezed to order or served straight from the coconut for 500 pesos (about 25 cents). In our wanderings we explored the massive fort at the center of the city, lovely cathedrals, museums, endless shops, and plazas- yet as we prepare to leave I feel that there is still so much that we have not seen.
Our last couple of days will be spent provisioning for our return to San Blas and getting to know our new passanger, Sergio. Sergio is a 26 year old backpacker from Chile who is sailing with us to Panama in exchange for some in depth conversational spanish instruction (yes, we're still determined!). It is almost impossibly dangerous to cross from Columbia to Panama by land, so it is not uncommon for backpackers to hitch a ride with sailboats, usually for a hefty fee of $300 per person. We have learned a lot more spanish in our travels, but are still no where near fluent. If he can help us to become so it will be an even exchange in our eyes. Fingers crossed!
This will be a somewhat sad farewell to Cartagena for a few reasons. This is partially because it is such a cool city, but also because it is the last new country we will be visiting on this trip. In addition to that, this is where "Calico Jack" and "Max" part ways. From here "Calico Jack" will head back to Key West via the Eastern Carribean. We will really miss Travis and Joanne, as they have made these wonderful experiences so much more with their great company and friendship. Farewell and fair winds.... Well, unfortunately it is time to start thinking about going back to the real world to make more money for the next grand adventure- which will hopefully take us to the Pacific! So, we have decided to make our way back North as well, but will be backtracking and visiting our favorite places along the way. From here we'll head back to San Blas for a while to wait out most of the rest of the hurricane season studying spanish with Sergio, so again we will be out of touch for several weeks. I hope you enjoyed catching up on our adventure as much as we enjoyed reliving it to you. Thanks again for checking in on us & we'll be back in touch again soon!
Lots O Love, Crystal, Jeremy, & MAX
